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Step by step installation guide for your new Reverse Osmosis System.
View Installation Diagram (Chart showing components and connections of 4 stage reverse osmosis system - works for 5 stage reverse osmosis system also)
1.Remove all system components from box and determine the location where the filter housings, tank and faucet will be placed. The Reverse Osmosis (RO) System is designed to fit under most sinks. It is also commonly installed in the utility area of lower levels or basements and the tubing extended up to the faucet and/or ice maker. It can be installed anywhere that will not present a problem of freezing in the winter. Basement installations offer cooler water during the summer months. It would also provide easy access for filter changes and easier connection to a refrigerator icemaker or a second faucet in a bathroom or wet bar. Furthermore, it does not take up valuable space in your kitchen cabinets. It may also be a less worrisome location should a leak develop. In the warm weather areas, an attached garage might offer a suitable location. If it is put under a kitchen cabinet, extra tubing in its connection might be advisable, since you could remove it for filter changes without disconnecting it. However, since most installations are performed under a kitchen sink, this guide will describe that procedure. Think about your installation before you begin. Remember that good access will allow easier filter changing.
If you desire to hang the filter housings, use the holes in the filter housing mounting bracket to mark the locations to drill to install (2) mounting screws and screw into side wall. There should be enough clearance below the bottom of the housings, so that you can place a pan to catch water when the filters are being replaced. Hang the filter housings to see if enough room was allowed. Set tank on firm surface. Try to position so that you have best access to shut-off valve on tank and not obstructing shut-off on cold water line. The tank can be set upright or laid on it's side. It can be 100 feet away from the faucet. However, the closer it is to the faucet, the better the flow. Remove and set aside filter housings and tank for now.
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Determine Location of Faucet Hole. Check underneath sink before drilling, making sure there are no obstructions. If using an air-gap faucet, place faucet so water from air-gap hole on side of faucet will run down into sink if drain tube were to plug. Place an old towel under sink to catch any metal filings to make clean up easy.
Stainless Steel Sink. Carefully mark the faucet location, making sure it is far away enough from the regular water faucet(s) so that they don't interfere with each other. Look to see if you can tighten the lock nut from below, before you drill a hole. Use center punch to make an indentation in sink surface to help hold alignment of hole saw. Drill a 1 1/4" hole with hole saw. Smooth out rough edges with a file if necessary.
Porcelain Coated Sink. The manufacturer recommends to have this type of sink professionally drilled because of possibility of chipping or cracking. If you are attempting to drill, use extreme caution. Use a Relton Cutter with adequate cooling lubricant.
You may also install the faucet directly into the countertop if you do not want to drill the sink. Position the faucet at the location to be drilled to make certain that the end of the spout will reach over the sink. Feel underneath the countertop to make certain there is no obstruction that would prevent proper faucet installation. Drill a 1 1/4" hole for both the air gap and non air gap faucets.
See more information on air gap faucets
(1) Once the hole is prepared, assemble those parts of the faucet that belong above the sink. First, the faucet spout. Some faucet spouts have threads, most do not. It is not necessary to tighten the faucet spout. It is preferable to let it move freely. Then you can move it out of the way when you wish. Insert the faucet stem into the hole in the faucet body. No plumber's putty is needed, since the small round rubber washers will provide the seal.
(2) The small, flat, black rubber washer goes underneath the faucet body, then the large chrome base plate, and then the large black rubber washer.
(3) From under the sink, slide on the thick black plastic washer first, then slide on the locknut & screw on the brass hex retaining nut. Tighten firmly into place once the faucet is properly aligned. If a small adjustment is needed from above, pad the jaws of the wrench, so as not to scratch the chrome finish
(1) Once the hole is prepared, assemble those parts of the faucet that belong above the sink. First, the faucet spout. Some of the faucet spouts have threads and some do not. It is not necessary to tighten the faucet spout. It is preferable to let it move freely in order to be able to move it out of the way when necessary. Insert the faucet stem into the hole in the faucet body. No plumber's putty is needed, since the small round rubber washers will provide the seal.
(2) Slide on the chrome base plate with oblong hole underneath the faucet body and then the large black rubber washer. Slide on the white plastic spacer, open end up. Then slide on the washer & then screw on the brass hex retaining nut. Screw on brass hex nut until there is a gap between the white plastic sleeve and the base of the faucet approximately the thickness of the sink. Connect the three (3) tubes to the faucet as described in step # 6. Put the three tubes connected to faucet through sink hole and sit the faucet in place.
(3) Under the sink, slide the steel slot washer ("C" shaped) between the white plastic spacer and the base of the sink. The open end of the slotted washer should be positioned to the same side as the connected tubes. Now tighten the brass hex nut you previously installed until faucet will not slip. Tighten firmly into place once the faucet is properly aligned. If a small adjustment is needed from above, pad the jaws of the wrench, so as not to scratch the chrome finish.
The faucet handle will need some force to pull up and lock on, this is normal. If the faucet is hard to get to lock on, taking too much force, or if it won't lock on at all, you will need to adjust the faucet handle "Tee Bar". Remove the spout and handle and adjust the Tee Bar until the faucet handle just slides on and off. Once the tee bar is adjusted slide the faucet handle back on making sure the Tee Bar stays 90 degrees with the faucet handle.
See a Typical Faucet Cut-A-Way Diagram With Parts Details
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Wrap the threads on the tank 3 or 4 times with Teflon tape (don't use any other type of pipe compounds).
Screw plastic ball valve on to the Teflon taped threads on the tank (approximately 4 to 5 full turns - do not over tighten - ball valve can crack).
Tank is pre-charged with air at 7 psi when empty. Tank can be laid on its' side if necessary (tank will hold between 2 to 3 gallons of R.O. water).
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Tank Trouble Shooting Guide
It is recommended to provide generous length of tubing during installation (except drain tube). This will make future servicing and filter changing easier.
Hand tighten all fittings firmly by hand then 1 1/2 to 2 full turns with a wrench. Don't over do it and strip the plastic threads.
Drain Tube - For Optional Air Gap Faucet Connect 1/4" clear tube to 1/4" nipple on bottom of faucet. Push on firmly. The barbs on the nipple will securely hold the tube. Cut to length and connect the other end to the RO system drain fitting. This is the fitting on the loose line behind the RO membrane housing. There is a small cylindrical flow restrictor in this line that will help identify it. Tighten firmly so tube will not pull out of fitting. Connect optional 3/8" clear tube to 3/8" nipple on bottom of faucet. Push on firmly. Cut to length and connect the other end to the drain saddle that you installed earlier. Keep this tube on a down hill slope from the faucet. No dips! (Cut off excess tube if necessary)
Check all fittings to be sure that they are all securely tightened.
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Click Here For Refrigerator Hook Up Parts
Click Here For Ordering Replacement Filters For Our Systems
Click Here For Ordering Filters For Any Other System
All Reverse Osmosis systems require some periodic maintenance to insure you are getting the same water quality as when the system was new. There is no maintenance more important than timely filter changes. Filters need to be replaced at recommended intervals because they retain a considerable amount of debris and contaminants. Failure to change filters or use of lower quality filters, can reduce membrane life and water quality dramatically. DO NOT WAIT UNTIL YOUR WATER TASTES BAD TO REPLACE YOUR FILTERS. Remember - most contaminants don't have a foul taste except in extreme quantities.
The best time to sanitize is when changing all the filters and/or when changing the membrane. It is recommended to sanitize all water filter and R.O. systems a minimum of once a year. You can skip this step on a new system. It is for filter changes only.
In the past systems were sanitized using bleach. This is caustic to the RO system parts and can cause a system to fail sooner than expected. Protect your system by using Pro Products Sani-System sanitizer. You won't have to worry anymore about performing enough flushes to rinse all of the bleach out of the system before drinking. We highly recommend the use of the Pro Products Sani-System sanitizer. It is EPA approved and is the best sanitizer available anywhere. And it takes only one minute to work.
Do not touch the filter cartridges with your fingers. Use the wrapper to handle them. Your hands can induce bacteria that will grow and foul the water. This is evident by "smelly" water.
Cloudy ice cubes or milky colored water.
- Water supply.
- System is still new.
- High oxygen content. Tiny frozen bubbles.
- Some refrigerators freeze differently, leaving the ice cube looking cloudy. Let cube dissolve in glass of water. If just air, will float to surface and dissipate.
- This is normal and should clear up in two weeks
Noisy drain or faucet.
- Drain tube.
Check that drain tube from faucet is continuously down hill to drain saddle. Loops or dips will cause noise and back up in drain line to faucet.
Filter housing sump leaks.
Hole on faucet is leaking.
- Shorten drain tube form faucet until smooth down hill flow to drain saddle.
- Disconnect drain tube and clean out restriction. (Food particles from garbage disposal).
- The drain hole in the base and on the rear of the faucet must both be clear and unrestricted. Clean as necessary.
Water does not taste or smell right.
- Filters have expired.
- Little water use.
- System needs sanitizing.
- Replace water filters. Should be replaced every 6 to 12 months.
- Drain entire tank. Should be done once every week to keep stored water fresh.
- Sanitize (see Sanitizing Instructions) and replace filters.
Little water from faucet.
- Incoming water pressure is below 40 PSI.
- Tank valve not open.
- Bad water storage tank.
- Filters clogged.
- Kinked tube.
- "Fouled" membrane.
- Increase pressure to 40 PSI. May require a pump.
- System takes 6 to 10 hours to completely fill.
- Open tank valve.
- Replace storage tank, If not bad, check that tank air pressure is between 7 PSI when empty.
- Replace water filters.
- Un-kink tube. If damaged, replace tube.
- Replace RO membrane.
System is continually running.
- Auto-shut off valve not working.
- Low incoming water pressure.
- Low tank air pressure.
- Tank bladder is ruptured. Is the tank heavy after draining out all water?
- Flow restrictor worn out.
- Membrane is bad (fouled).
- Replace auto shut off valve.
- Increase incoming water pressure to 40 PSI or better. This may take a pump.
- Check tank pressure with specially calibrated air pressure gauge. Fill to 7 PSI.
- Replace the tank.
- Replace the flow restrictor.
- Use TDS tester meter to check membrane. Replace membrane.
Ice maker not working
- Ice maker handle in refrigerator is off.
- Ice maker line frozen.
- Tube to refrigerator is kinked.
- Pull to down position to turn on.
- Thaw with hair dryer. Make sure you have a full tank of water before turning icemaker on.
- Find kink and replace tube.
No water out of refrigerator door.
TDS of RO water (permeate) is the same as the incoming feed water. Also high pressure and endless supply from RO faucet.
- Water may be bypassing the Brine Seal - (large rubber ring around the outside of the membrane)
Makes water slow.
- Low water pressure.
- Filters plugged.
- Fouled membrane. - Low Tank air pressure
- Increase incoming water pressure. This may require a pump. Check for kinked tubes.
- Replace RO membrane.
Faucet Handle Turns On Hard or Won't Lock On.
- Faucet Needs Adjusted
Adjusting The Handle Of Standard Style Faucets, Both Air-Gap and Non Air-Gap: The faucet handle will need some force to pull up and lock on, this is normal. If the faucet is hard to get to lock on, taking too much force, or if it won't lock on at all, you will need to adjust the faucet handle "Tee Bar". Remove the spout and handle and adjust the Tee Bar until the faucet handle just slides on and off. Once the tee bar is adjusted slide the faucet handle back on making sure the Tee Bar stays 90 degrees with the faucet handle.